Pacific Rim Magazine

The Fiji Islands have an eclectic variety of delightful small resorts. There's something wondrously inviting about properties that have 13 or fewer bures (boo-rays) or bungalows. These intimate resorts, with their attentive friendly staff members, will welcome you into your ultimate romantic dream come true.

Tucked away on an unspoiled 30 acre peninsula on the island of Vanu Levu, sits the Rainbow Reef Resort. No roads mar the pristine beauty of the surrounding jungle. You are ferried by boat across the Somosomo Straits from Tavenui island. As you approach the resort's crescent white sand beach and see the graceful waving palm trees, you are transported back to a simpler era. Time slows to a pace measured by the traveling of the sun across the sky and the singing of birds. Cast off your watch, forget the clocks, and live the fantasy.

Enter your bure, with its high thatched roof, stroll out onto your curved veranda, and gaze out onto your own personal sandy beach. At the water's edge, each bure has an oversized hammock and sunning platform with lounge chairs, float mats, and kayaks. Take out a kayak and glide along the calm turquoise waters, go snorkeling, lounge on the swimming platform, or collect a treasure of seashells.

The Orchid bure, where my husband and I stayed, has a lovely spa. Every bure has an outdoor shower atrium. Inside you'll find a refrigerator and mini bar. And let's not forget the romantically inspired tropical four poster beds.

One of the highlights of our stay was enjoying the vistas from the two viewing decks. One deck sits on a point above the sea and has a breathtaking panoramic view. The other one has a sitting platform and then a few steps farther, a sunning deck overlooking Kiss Me Beach.

Be adventurous and go diving, sailing, dugout canoeing, hand-line fishing, and engage in a rousing game of volleyball. Or enjoy at your leisure: croquet, sunset boat trips, and lessons in the native handicrafts. Set off on a hiking path that trails along a ridge top through brilliant green foliage. Stop at the scenic overlooks, let the breeze blow through your hair, and gaze out on the surrounding islands that seem to magically hover on the vibrant blue ocean. On your hike you'll see ancient fish ponds and find trails that wind down to private beaches.

Kari and Richard Steir's attention to details grand and small show in their excellent cuisine. Dine seaside indoors or al fresco. You'll be enchanted as your waiter presents your dinner on a plate framed with beautiful flowers. Besides their trademark Pacific Rim cuisine, Rainbow Reef presents theme nights: Mexican, French, Caribbean, and more. Make your own gourmet wood-fired pizzas. Savor their homemade chowders and fresh-baked breads.

Nukubati Island Resort, the hidden gem of Fiji's northern islands, sits in the Great Sea Reef, one of the world's largest pristine reefs. You'll reach the island via sea plane that skims across the sparkling ocean and touches down on soft white sand. Kick off your shoes and step from the plane into the refreshing water. Ahhhh... You have arrived in paradise. As the tide recedes, small islands appear in the huge bay where Nukubati lies. Let the experienced staff treat you to their special "Picnic on a Sand Island." The favorable tide (in other words, you won't be covered by water) lasts 3-5 hours and we were fortunate enough to have low tide at lunch time.

Beneath the shade of a huge umbrella, our gourmet lunch with Champagne was set out on a teak table that was draped in an elegant white table cloth and laid out with silver place settings. Towels and a beach mat were spread nearby. Incredible. This is a very little sand island. You can lie on all four sides of its shore in about one minute. What is so delightful is that it is your little sand island.

The chef specializes in dishes using local seafood with fruits and vegetables from the nearby villages. As a seafood lover, having lobster three meals in a row was Nirvana. Upon my arrival, I was treated to a lobster salad. Dinner was delicious lobster, and I special ordered a lobster omelette the next morning. It was fantastic.

Nukubati has three oceanfront Honeymoon Bures and 4 Duplex Bures. What I loved most about our bure was the outdoor sitting area between the main part of the bungalow and the bathroom. A large open-air deck off to the side of the bure has a table and chairs--the perfect place to kick back and read a good book.

All-inclusive rates (meals, liquor, wine, and most activities) are $700.00-$860.00, seven night minimum. Children 12 and older are welcome.

For tropical sophistication, visit Wakaya Club, Wakaya Island Resort, located off of Suva in the southeast of the Fiji Islands. Crescent white sand beaches front the resort and sheer green cliffs provide a stunning backdrop. The water is as clear as a swimming pool with a pure white sand bottom to squiggle your toes in. Beachcombers, keep an eye out for all the bright intricate shells. Romantics, get ready for all the hand-in-hand sunset stroll opportunities.

What I loved most about Wakaya? Their private beach picnics. A resort staff member drives you to an isolated beach or bay and sets out a PICNIC IN PROCESS sign at the top of the road to ensure privacy. They set up two lounges, umbrella, hammock, table and chairs and a cooler full of your favorite food and drink. We sipped Vueve Cliquot Champagne and dined on lobster, green salad, fresh coconut, pasta salad, fruit, cookies, and bottled water. We savored the delicious food, we snorkeled, we swam--all in total privacy.

Wakaya offers a beautiful nine hole golf course nestled in a 19th century palm grove. Take an archeological hike or nature walk and glimpse wild horses with their creamy white bodies and golden manes. Scuba-dive, try a game of croquet on the David Niven Championship croquet court, play tennis on halogen lit court, or go out on their glass bottom boat--a great way to see all the awesome corals and fish without even getting wet.

Dining is at separate tables, either inside the dining room, on the outer deck, or in their picturesque gazebos. Wakaya specializes in fresh seafood, local venison, and organically grown vegetables and fruits from their own gardens. Raise a toast of refreshment from their excellent wine and Champagne list.

In my opinion, this is Fiji's most upscale resort. The plantation style bungalows have a bedroom with a four-poster king-sized bed and a sitting room with a wet bar. The CD player has speakers in both rooms to lull you with tranquil music. There is an air conditioner in each room for absolute comfort. (Fiji is in the southern hemisphere, close to the equator, and the weather can be hot and humid November through March.) Enjoy your own private backyard area and hammock and lounges by the ocean. The Governor's Bure at the secluded end of the main beach, has a huge Jacuzzi bathtub outside and a larger private outdoor garden with a waterfall. Or stay at the magnificent home Vale O (House in the Clouds). Bures, from garden view to the Vale O house range $1495.00-$3,500.00 and include food, fine wines, and liquor. Wakaya welcomes children 16 years or older.

Located in the northern island group, Qamea Resort & Spa sits on a jungle island alive with the color and song of birds. Swim in Qamea's freeform pool surrounded by rainforest and lush hillsides. Their white sand beach provides easy access to one of Fiji's most celebrated snorkeling areas. Enjoy the calm water, abundance of fish, and brilliant red, orange, yellow, and pink soft corals. Qamea has been nominated by Rodales Scuba Diving Magazine as one of the world's "10 best snorkeling reefs." Why not try paddling an outrigger canoe? Play croquet, go sailing, windsurfing, or fishing at sunset. Follow the trail of torches and hear the enchanting rhythm of the lali drum as you near the massive burekalou. The dining bure is an open temple turned dining room with reed and bamboo partitions decorated with artifacts from the South Pacific. The sweet songs of Fijian musicians entertain as you dine on world class cuisine, fine wines, seafood fresh from the ocean, and tropical fruits.

Jo Kloss maintains the highest standard of service, food, and amenities, while offering nature at its best. Qamea, the only resort on the island, has only 12 bures and best suits those looking for tranquility, relaxation, and great food. The bures are constructed from the local hardwoods and bamboo in traditional Fijian style and decorated with native tapa cloth. The honeymoon bure is considerably larger than the others, split level, with oversized bamboo furniture. Bures range $550.00 to $700.00 for the Honeymoon Bure. Children 13 and older are welcome.

My husband and I first visited Namale Resort in 1990 and have been returning ever since. Namale has captured our hearts with its tropical elegant dark wood and thatched roof bures that are surrounded by a true garden of Eden. Originally built by a man who loved birds, the well-planted gardens attract dozens of brightly plumed birds that sing cheerful songs all day.

Namale Resort is located in the northern island group on the second largest island of Vanu Levu. Only 13 bures (up from eight when we first visited) and two luxury homes. Indulge yourself and stay in the Bula House (Welcome House) which perches on a cliff top and has an ocean view, full kitchen, split level bedroom, living and dining rooms, pool table, stereo sound system with outdoor speakers, big screen TV, and air conditioning. All this and a Jacuzzi and dipping pool. I was delighted to stay in the Tatandra House (Dreaming House). This cliff top house with its awesome ocean view has two bedrooms and the best bathtub experience in Fiji. The white tiled bathroom has an oversized Jacuzzi tub and a huge open shower that looks right out on the ocean. Dine in the Grand Bure and enjoy the cuisine prepared by their new executive chef. Watch the sun set in hues of violet and pink as you sit on the Daylight Deck overlooking Namale's bay or on intimate decks that stair step down the cliff in front of the bure.

At low tide, there is excellent snorkeling on the side of the reef. Slip into one of their two swimming pools or two outdoor Jacuzzi. Namale also offers a small air conditioned gym, an excellent scuba-diving operation, mini golf, and even a two lane bowling alley! For the occasional rainy day, shoot some hoops on the indoor basketball court or watch movies on their big screen TV.

Bula and Tatandra House rates are available upon application. Bures range $675.00-$990.00. This includes all meals, liquor, wine, and many activities. Namale welcomes children 12 and older.

Navini Island Resort sits on one of the smallest islands in the Mamanuca (mama-nutha) Island Group. You'll feel like you're on a beautiful little castaway island lush with coconut palms and embraced by a wide stretch of white sand. It's a true coral cay and it takes a mere 10 minutes to walk around the whole island! There is no pool, and none is necessary with the calm blue sea at your feet.

What Navini might lack in five star amenities, it more than makes up for in charming atmosphere and friendly resort staff. The Mamanucas are a popular destination and this little treat might be just what you're looking for. Book the whole island for your wedding? It could all be yours--pure white sand beaches, crystal clear water, and excellent snorkeling. Choose a traditional ceremony or Fijian wedding ceremony where you'll dress in tapa cloth costumes and wear garlands of fresh flowers.

Only 10 bures make this a casual, relaxing vacation dream. Book early and reserve the Deluxe Honeymoon Bure with its private courtyard and romantic open-air spa bath. Prices range from the Deluxe Honeymoon Bure at $455.00 to the one bedroom bures at $385.00. (includes three meals a day) Children of all ages are welcome.

The Fijian's heartfelt philosophy is: Come as a visitor, leave as a friend. They will welcome you, pamper you, and make you dream of staying forever. You'll toss away all your cares and embrace the Fijian's easygoing saying: sega na lega (senga-na-lenga), no worries!

Melissa McCoy has been traveling to the Fiji Islands since 1990. An avid kayaker and hiker, she lives on Maui where she runs her own travel agency.

For more information go to melissamccoy.com

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